The train; many experiences, good, bad and indifferent on these the most environmentally logical way of moving a large number of people from A to B however never before have I gone to a station knowing that I will be boarding one for 16 hours!!
With more than a little trepidation we arrive at the platform at roughly 3:30pm for 16:15pm departure. We passed through the "security gate" somewhat of a free for all where if you put your bag on the conveyor it was scanned otherwise you just walk through making it seem more than a little pointless. Having located our platform with relative ease we were unsure as to whether the train already there was in fact the train we would be boarding or not. After some time we established that it was however we could not see our coach and then panicked when the train started moving, there was no need as it became apparent that the train was so long they could only have so many carriages in the station at any one time! After some too-ing and fro-ing we found our carriage and boarded.
The carriage consisted of 6 compartments all open with four bunks in each and another two lengthways opposite with the aisle in between. A pillow and blanket provided for each one. Unfortunately we were not all together, in fact all three were in different compartments which was not ideal. We tried to settle quickly and on the advice of friends and other travellers locked our bags to our bunks and watched the remaining passengers filter on and settle also. Once we were moving we started to relax a little as the carriages were not full and even managed a game of cards. As the stops continued more passengers came and also some randoms seeming to just be checking who was where and had what belongings (you do not need a ticket to get on the platforms so presumably sleeping passengers with easily accessible belongings would make for easy pickings for any likely opportunists). We retired to our respective bunks where some of us slept and some did not, no prizes for guessing here folks.
I had a chat with a chap who appeared in my cabin and learned that at 26 years old he was a captain in the Indian army on the officer programme and had some 800 soldiers in his command. It was not as bad as I for one had expected however the constant motion on the not very straight tracks really did grate after a number of hours. You would not want to be a light sleeper if you had intended to stay asleep as constant comings and goings, phones and conversations would not easily aid peaceful sleep in any case. The night passed without any notable incidents albeit very slowly and we were very happy got get off on the platform in Agra. It's difficult to describe the disorientation and dizzy feeling that this amount of time on a train can give you until you experience it. Conclusion though is not too bad at all, would be massively improved with a locking cabin as would make sleep much more feasible.
With more than a little trepidation we arrive at the platform at roughly 3:30pm for 16:15pm departure. We passed through the "security gate" somewhat of a free for all where if you put your bag on the conveyor it was scanned otherwise you just walk through making it seem more than a little pointless. Having located our platform with relative ease we were unsure as to whether the train already there was in fact the train we would be boarding or not. After some time we established that it was however we could not see our coach and then panicked when the train started moving, there was no need as it became apparent that the train was so long they could only have so many carriages in the station at any one time! After some too-ing and fro-ing we found our carriage and boarded.
The carriage consisted of 6 compartments all open with four bunks in each and another two lengthways opposite with the aisle in between. A pillow and blanket provided for each one. Unfortunately we were not all together, in fact all three were in different compartments which was not ideal. We tried to settle quickly and on the advice of friends and other travellers locked our bags to our bunks and watched the remaining passengers filter on and settle also. Once we were moving we started to relax a little as the carriages were not full and even managed a game of cards. As the stops continued more passengers came and also some randoms seeming to just be checking who was where and had what belongings (you do not need a ticket to get on the platforms so presumably sleeping passengers with easily accessible belongings would make for easy pickings for any likely opportunists). We retired to our respective bunks where some of us slept and some did not, no prizes for guessing here folks.
I had a chat with a chap who appeared in my cabin and learned that at 26 years old he was a captain in the Indian army on the officer programme and had some 800 soldiers in his command. It was not as bad as I for one had expected however the constant motion on the not very straight tracks really did grate after a number of hours. You would not want to be a light sleeper if you had intended to stay asleep as constant comings and goings, phones and conversations would not easily aid peaceful sleep in any case. The night passed without any notable incidents albeit very slowly and we were very happy got get off on the platform in Agra. It's difficult to describe the disorientation and dizzy feeling that this amount of time on a train can give you until you experience it. Conclusion though is not too bad at all, would be massively improved with a locking cabin as would make sleep much more feasible.
The home of the Taj Mahal. Somewhat inauspicious start when we arrive outside a hotel we did not book and are then told that the hotel we were booked into was full and this was a sister establishment of equal quality. We could not argue that the place looked very new and of a good standard with a nicely decorated and laid out room. The only issues we had really were that it was slightly further out from the centre and the Wi-Fi is only available at the reception desk, first world problems eh.
Due to the train journey to get here we again opted to take a shower and rest before exploring.
A little later and a little refreshed we check Google maps and decide to head towards the 'Taj' for a look around the area as given the time felt it better to leave entry to the following day when we would be much better able to appreciate what we were looking at. Google maps seemed to take us on a much longer route than required so we gave in and hailed a Tuk-Tuk (this was not a first for Google maps either ladies and gents). When the driver stopped a short ride later he tried to explain he could go no further as only electric vehicles were allowed beyond this point which was we're you purchased your tickets, some 2km from the actual entrance. We carried on for the stroll and found a lovely quiet viewpoint by the river bank (Yamuna) outside the walls with great views and a sneaky glimpse at the rear of the 'Taj'. We returned to the area around the main gate and opted for one of the many rooftop restaurants for some dinner (and a beer but better whisper as this should not be sold so near and does not appear on a menu or as a beer on a bill.....). The naan bread for the curry was lovely, the curry was not! The poor old man that had to bring everything up the very steep and narrow staircase would make you not ask for anything else either. We came across a nice couple in their late sixties from Canada touring India for 3 months and loving it.
Day 2:
We book a driver for the day as with many places as it really is the most effective way of seeing a large number of sites and when you have more than one day you can still have a wonder about yourself anyway.
First stop, "The Baby Taj" (Itimad-ud-Dualah) it is not an exact replica by any means nor was it intended to be however you can see the similarities and is set in well kept gardens with the river at the rear. The central tomb made entirely from marble with finely carved marble lattices allowing just a little sunlight in to gently kiss the graves inside.
Baby Taj
View of the entrance from the Baby Taj
On then to Aggra fort....
What can I say, this was our third fort and they're not that dissimilar.
The volume of people fighting to get prime location for photographs snaps you back to reality. Deciding it's likely easier to just carry on we make our way along the fountained ponds marvelling at the magnificent structure. As with every significant place you must remove your shoes before climbing the stairway to the raised base. Photography is not permitted inside the mausoleum and describing the level of detail inside seems impossible. As there is very limited light inside the precious stone inlays in the marble can really only be appreciated when one if the attendant places a torch on it and the coloured inlay comes to life really making me we wish I could see it all illuminated. People throw coins into the centre presumably as some kind of wish request but unfortunately this was no clarified (pretty sure the net will have an answer though). Due to the volume of human trafficattendants were quick to move people along as understandably one could spend a long time just staring. Once you come outside you then notice the immaculately kept gardens that seemed invisible as we walked through them. Walking around the mausoleum just enforces the magnitude and detail involved in its construction. We spent some time just strolling around marvelling at what really is a wondrous place including the views out onto the river at the rear.
After a day of sightseeing we decided we deserved a beer and asked out driver to bring us to a particular bar we'd read about in lonely planet but he advised it would be full of drunk Indians but that he knew of a restaurant near our hotel where we could have dinner and a beer no problem before we went for our next train. We were probably should have known better, the restaurant was expensive and they tried to charge us three times the price or the beer but we asked the price first and after going to walk away we managed to negotiate a more reasonable price.
We enjoyed our meal and a few beers then headed to the train station for yet another over night train which was to be the shortest in the hopes that the beer would make sleep a little easier.
What can I say, this was our third fort and they're not that dissimilar.
Main building Agra Fort
The Taj Mahal
We got to the main gate to find the queuing system resembling the railings separating animals at a Mart (irish farmers auction for those that do not know). Ladies in one row, gents in another and then another row which after much shooing I gathered it was the one I should have been in basically for foreigners (male only) who paid three times the entry fee. I was happy to skip ahead in any case. Once inside the iconic building comes into view and instantly images flash through the mind of every time you've seen photos, postcards or films showing this majestic place quickly proving the saying that 'pictures do not do justice'.
We enjoyed our meal and a few beers then headed to the train station for yet another over night train which was to be the shortest in the hopes that the beer would make sleep a little easier.
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