Leaving Mui Ne via bus for Dalat we had expected a five hour bus journey to knowing that this would be different to our previous stops based on its location inland and up in the mountains. I for one had vastly under estimated just how high up in the mountains however as the bus just seemed to climb and climb winding it's way up the heavily pot holed roads with my ears actually popping before we had even reached the highest part of the road. Finally we started to level off and actually reached Dalat in at the expected time albeit to a dark and drizzling Dalat.
We jumped in a taxi for the short spin to the hostel and checked in although the young chap seemed surprised to see three of us however just carried on and showed us to our room with two beds before asking if we could do him a favour!! Basically there had been some error with bookings and this was the only room he had left so having brought us up the stairs with our bags he asked if we could please share for one night? with little other option and it not being any real drama we agreed before a weather dictated change of clothes we heading out for dinner. Very sadly Linda received a call with tragic news just after dinner so we returned to the hostel to organise a return asap so unfortunately we say goodbye to Linda in sad circumstances. RIP Matt Ryan.
We'd had quite a late night that night so myself and Shane had a slow start to the day. We headed towards the centre for some breakfast/lunch but only made it to the bank before the heavens opened. We hadn't seen rain in almost a month and this one shower which lasted about half an hour certainly made up for that! The temperature here only got to 28 degrees but it rained everyday.
Once the rain passed and we were fed and watered we had a wonder round the town which was really nice. Set around a large lake you could see how it could be quite picturesque in the sun. Having orientated ourselves we headed to the crazy house and crazy it is.
It's like something from Alice in wonderland, almost creepy but interesting. It was originally started as a personal project but was opened to the public in 1990 and operates as a hotel with ten rooms each based on a particular animal which is still being added to with the rather eccentric 74 year old Vietnamese lady architect's house in the centre. The whole project is based on illustrations rather than traditional architects drawings and the work has been completed by local craftsmen rather than professional builders. It is a bewildering maze of narrow paths and stairways all the way through the property and often crossing each other either through, over or under. You do need to be pretty sprightly and have reasonable balance for this as some of the paths reach heights of 35 feet up with the sides being little more than 2 feet high meaning "health and safety experts" in western society would have shut this place a long time ago. The pathways are constructed with narrow.gauge steel and concrete and made to look like tree branches up high and tree roots lower down, it is remarkably well done as from 3 feet away you would find it difficult to say they were not.as they appeared. Such a wonderful mind coupled with extraordinary vision and indeed finances have produced this truly marvellous feat of construction.
Having previously received a dinner invitation from the manager of the hostel we tried to prepare ourselves for every eventuality, not knowing whether it would be in his home with his family or a nearby restaurant as the only clue we were given was that it would be genuine Vietnamese food. We appeared at reception at the given time and were somewhat relieved to meet other guests waiting there also. What we had not realised was the manager regularly invites many of his guests for dinner, the idea being that he will guide them all to local 'street food restaurants' to have traditional cheap food and also so that the guests from many different countries can chat and get to know eachother a little. In my opinion a genuinely thoughtful and clever thing for a hostel manager to do.
As there were a number of other guests with bikes and mopeds it was decided we should all go by moto, so with a first name introduction those of us that didn't have bikes were riding pillion and off we went. It was later on we learned that three of the guys (A Brit, a Canadian and a Dutch guy 18 & 19yrs old) who did not know each other at all had met in Saigon whilst purchasing their bikes and as they all intended riding all the way to Hanoi that they might as well go together. None of them had ever ridden never mind owned a bike prior to purchase, they knew nothing of their rather tired steeds stress and did not even have any basic mechanical knowledge but we're all eager to learn. (Note: It is very popular when travelling Vietnam to buy 'back packers bikes' normally very tired 100cc motorbikes that have been to the moon and back. They generally cost $250-$300 dollars and the idea being you sell it to another back packer when you've driven south to North, vice-versa or just can't take it anymore!)
Dinner was interesting, you didn't really know what you were getting just point to what you like the look of and try it! Thankfully it was all vegetarian and pretty good really costing a massive £1.20 per head. We then mounted up and headed for dessert at another location which was fried banana and tapioca, looked horrific (anyone that's seen the film 'There's something about Mary' could probably guess!!) but again pretty tasty. After dropping the bikes at the hostel we headed for a quick beer and chat before bed.
The next day we took a cable car up further into the mountains to see the Truyen Lam lake and Truc Lam Pagoda. The cable car was pretty new and fully enclosed much to my relief. The scenery was spectacular providing views to the city on the way up, mountains and tiny villages at the peak and the lake on the brief but steep descent on the other side.
When we got back we went for a quick lunch deciding that we would rent a moto to see some more of the city and around the lake. As our passport and driving licence were back at the hotel this was not possible however a hair brained notion and 5 minutes later we're on a tandem bicycle! Now I'm not sure if anyone reading this has ever had the experience of a tandem before but my advice for what it's worth; run away, run away quickly! No sooner had we wobbled 100yards when the heaven's opened and rain torrents pounded on top of us, off the bike and into a restaurant to climb into the plastic ponchos which we had cleverly, just in case purchased previously however with the road resembling a white water rafting course we decided to wait out the worst of it.
After about an hour or so all that was left was a light drizzle and much of the rain water now dispersed with the exception of some visible road floods we decided to brave it again. Having gotten somewhat of a rhythm going we headed for the railway station. Besides the fact that it was about 2km uphill it really wasn't worth the effort or continuous swearing and nervous, hysterical laughter that got us there, the best part about it was the return was downhill! This was also a cause of much swearing as the wet had not assisted the already less than reliable braking ability of our very own in line missile even invoking the fleeting thought that at least Geri won't see it coming when we crash through the crossroads at the bottom into the side of a rigid lorry! Having mercifully survived the descent we carried on around the lake through the floods to the impressive, well watered FlowerGardens. On exiting this our 'tandem thought was to return to the rental shop to return this wretched machine and go back to the hostel for a hot shower, beer and dry clothes.
Dinner was a repeat of last night's affair with some of the same and some new participants. Again guessing what the food was but carrying on regardless and ultimately enjoying the food and company before returning to the hostel to pack up and get ready to move on again in morning.
We jumped in a taxi for the short spin to the hostel and checked in although the young chap seemed surprised to see three of us however just carried on and showed us to our room with two beds before asking if we could do him a favour!! Basically there had been some error with bookings and this was the only room he had left so having brought us up the stairs with our bags he asked if we could please share for one night? with little other option and it not being any real drama we agreed before a weather dictated change of clothes we heading out for dinner. Very sadly Linda received a call with tragic news just after dinner so we returned to the hostel to organise a return asap so unfortunately we say goodbye to Linda in sad circumstances. RIP Matt Ryan.
We'd had quite a late night that night so myself and Shane had a slow start to the day. We headed towards the centre for some breakfast/lunch but only made it to the bank before the heavens opened. We hadn't seen rain in almost a month and this one shower which lasted about half an hour certainly made up for that! The temperature here only got to 28 degrees but it rained everyday.
Once the rain passed and we were fed and watered we had a wonder round the town which was really nice. Set around a large lake you could see how it could be quite picturesque in the sun. Having orientated ourselves we headed to the crazy house and crazy it is.
It's like something from Alice in wonderland, almost creepy but interesting. It was originally started as a personal project but was opened to the public in 1990 and operates as a hotel with ten rooms each based on a particular animal which is still being added to with the rather eccentric 74 year old Vietnamese lady architect's house in the centre. The whole project is based on illustrations rather than traditional architects drawings and the work has been completed by local craftsmen rather than professional builders. It is a bewildering maze of narrow paths and stairways all the way through the property and often crossing each other either through, over or under. You do need to be pretty sprightly and have reasonable balance for this as some of the paths reach heights of 35 feet up with the sides being little more than 2 feet high meaning "health and safety experts" in western society would have shut this place a long time ago. The pathways are constructed with narrow.gauge steel and concrete and made to look like tree branches up high and tree roots lower down, it is remarkably well done as from 3 feet away you would find it difficult to say they were not.as they appeared. Such a wonderful mind coupled with extraordinary vision and indeed finances have produced this truly marvellous feat of construction.
Having previously received a dinner invitation from the manager of the hostel we tried to prepare ourselves for every eventuality, not knowing whether it would be in his home with his family or a nearby restaurant as the only clue we were given was that it would be genuine Vietnamese food. We appeared at reception at the given time and were somewhat relieved to meet other guests waiting there also. What we had not realised was the manager regularly invites many of his guests for dinner, the idea being that he will guide them all to local 'street food restaurants' to have traditional cheap food and also so that the guests from many different countries can chat and get to know eachother a little. In my opinion a genuinely thoughtful and clever thing for a hostel manager to do.
As there were a number of other guests with bikes and mopeds it was decided we should all go by moto, so with a first name introduction those of us that didn't have bikes were riding pillion and off we went. It was later on we learned that three of the guys (A Brit, a Canadian and a Dutch guy 18 & 19yrs old) who did not know each other at all had met in Saigon whilst purchasing their bikes and as they all intended riding all the way to Hanoi that they might as well go together. None of them had ever ridden never mind owned a bike prior to purchase, they knew nothing of their rather tired steeds stress and did not even have any basic mechanical knowledge but we're all eager to learn. (Note: It is very popular when travelling Vietnam to buy 'back packers bikes' normally very tired 100cc motorbikes that have been to the moon and back. They generally cost $250-$300 dollars and the idea being you sell it to another back packer when you've driven south to North, vice-versa or just can't take it anymore!)
Dinner was interesting, you didn't really know what you were getting just point to what you like the look of and try it! Thankfully it was all vegetarian and pretty good really costing a massive £1.20 per head. We then mounted up and headed for dessert at another location which was fried banana and tapioca, looked horrific (anyone that's seen the film 'There's something about Mary' could probably guess!!) but again pretty tasty. After dropping the bikes at the hostel we headed for a quick beer and chat before bed.
The next day we took a cable car up further into the mountains to see the Truyen Lam lake and Truc Lam Pagoda. The cable car was pretty new and fully enclosed much to my relief. The scenery was spectacular providing views to the city on the way up, mountains and tiny villages at the peak and the lake on the brief but steep descent on the other side.
After about an hour or so all that was left was a light drizzle and much of the rain water now dispersed with the exception of some visible road floods we decided to brave it again. Having gotten somewhat of a rhythm going we headed for the railway station. Besides the fact that it was about 2km uphill it really wasn't worth the effort or continuous swearing and nervous, hysterical laughter that got us there, the best part about it was the return was downhill! This was also a cause of much swearing as the wet had not assisted the already less than reliable braking ability of our very own in line missile even invoking the fleeting thought that at least Geri won't see it coming when we crash through the crossroads at the bottom into the side of a rigid lorry! Having mercifully survived the descent we carried on around the lake through the floods to the impressive, well watered FlowerGardens. On exiting this our 'tandem thought was to return to the rental shop to return this wretched machine and go back to the hostel for a hot shower, beer and dry clothes.
Dinner was a repeat of last night's affair with some of the same and some new participants. Again guessing what the food was but carrying on regardless and ultimately enjoying the food and company before returning to the hostel to pack up and get ready to move on again in morning.
No comments:
Post a Comment