Varanasi to Kolkata (Calcutta) "the long days night"
Our last overnight Indian train was due to depart Varanasi at 20:10 and given the traffic conditions our hotel strongly recommended we leave no later than 17:30 to be sure so as they had arranged the driver that's what we did. The driver had little English but did make every effort in fairness to explain that we would go out of town to avoid the worst of the traffic. As we seemed to get further into the sticks one could almost hear banjo's playing in the air and even more stares as we passed groups of seemingly startled locals. We eventually came to a highway although the driver didn't appear to know how to access it we carried on putting the poor car into holes a tractor would be doing well to traverse but thankfully after much wincing (mainly me) and tearing on the underside of the car we were on it. We drove for some time and as if on cue I asked how much further just as the driver indicated to turn off. He explained that this station was in Mughal town (calm down Potter fans, Mughal not Muggle) and they would not see "too many of our kind" and to watch our belongings as thiefs (he even mimicked creeping at this point) would operate here. We arrived and quickly got a sense of his warning. Given that it only took an hour to get there we now had two hours to kill and went to the cafe upstairs deciding that eating there was probably not too clever and with no tea, coffee or milk had our cokes and sat for a while. Getting onto 19:45 I decided to check the platform and was shortly followed by a lone white lady we had seen in the cafe. With no info on the platform and the train having now disappeared from the board I made my way nervously to the enquiry desk. Having been stood on, climbed over and just plain pushed out of the way for 2-3 mins it became apparent brute force was the only way to get to the window! I was then told one hour delay at which point I turned to find the same white lady behind me contemplating the "queuing system" she asked what train and confirmed she was on the same one asking if she could join us. We chatted and learned that Elaina was Swiss and travelling on her own in India for three weeks, brave girl in my opinion! A few games of cards and another coke the advice this time was that it would be two and a half hours late now! Our time in the cafe had thought us that rats are everywhere and not eating here was indeed a clever move. More time had passed and with no further announcements we headed for the platform at 22:15 more trains none of them ours! Having played dodge the rat for about half an hour, back up to the station and the board now showed our train and three and a half hours delay, this information was not received well! We decided the bridge to the platform was probably the least likely place we would pick up any extra passengers in our bags or indeed any bites bigger than the unavoidable insects. Here we picked up another stray, Josh, an American thirty something also travelling alone other than his ukelele visiting schools and orphanages volunteering his time and money where possible. Many hours later and given how long this story is thus far I will cut it considerably shorter and confirm that our train due at 20:10 eventually arrived on the platform at 04:20!! Sleep funnily enough came much easier on this train.
Kolkata (Calcutta)
As we were due to arrive here at 06:50 we were understandably somewhat jaded stepping off the train at 17:20! No transfer to our hotel meant the best option was the pre-paid taxi service as deemed the safest by websites and lonely planet alike. Our driver then had never heard of the address and got lost so when we eventually found the hotel he said as we had given the wrong address we should pay him more money! Rather coolly I pointed him to the sign with the street name on it as we had shown him very politely telling him that I was not going to pay extra for him getting lost, he didn't seem to agree so walking away seemed the best option. We checked in and were too hungry to contemplate a rest or even a shower so ventured out in search of food. We stumbled upon a lovely restaurant although expensive with very nice food and ice cold beer. That was us happy to return to shower and sleep.
We now head towards Mother House, Mother Teresa's home and where she worked from 1953 to 1997 with a small hospital and convent. We walked there about 2.5km along a road where many mechanics carried out all manner of repairs to tuk-tuks, cars and 4x4's with the most basic of tools. It became apparent that as well as repairs many vehicles changed identity here too, number plates, chassis badges, window tints, stickers and hubcaps all changing a vehicle completely in a matter of minutes! Mother House appeared almost invisible on the busy street, painted dark grey with yellow Windows. It was in some ways similar to the Gandhi museum we had visited in Delhi with many photos, stories, speeches and everyday items used by Mother Teresa on display. We also saw her tomb on the ground floor with the words "a clean heart can see god" arranged in orange petals on the white marble tomb. Also the room where she lived and 'went home to god' quite an awe inspiringingly tranquil place in the middle of a busy city.
Kolkata is by far the most westernised city we have been to in India with many designer shops and malls and just seemed in some places at least to be much more affluent than the other cities. There were very few touts or offers of tuk-tuk, autos etc. everybody just getting on with their lives and for a pleasant change not taking so much notice of us as we walked about.
Victoria Memorial in Kolkata was also within walking distance so decided it was worth a look.
It is set in the city opposite a large park with lots of ice cream vendors and budding cricket stars honing their skills. The memorial itself is a very large marble building housing a museum and some 25 different galleries within and is set in beautiful grounds with lakes and perfectly maintained gardens. Looking at it you can see similarities between it, the Taj Mahal and in a strange way Capitol building in Washington. It was built as a memorial to Queen Victoria with construction starting some five years after her death and taking 15 years to complete.
One can't help but notice the difference between this and Mother's House and on reflection begin to understand the way the world did, does and presumably will continue to be somewhat misguided on what really matters in life.
On the way back we passed St. Paul's Cathedral, a very gothic building quite small in stature for a cathedral and very typically English inside with dark timber furniture and crests lining both sides of the church itself.
We returned to our hotel to grab our bags and and an unusually uneventful taxi ride to Kolkata international airport for our flight to Bangkok.
India:
'Incredible India' and it really is in so many ways. Such a massively over populated country means if you want it, you've got to make it or take it! The sights, the sounds, the smells can and will often leave a person utterly speechless, jaw on the floor and not knowing whether to laugh or cry! It is a place that every person should visit at least once in their lives if for no other reason than to put
Some of the "sayings" we've learned here;
"If you hurry hurry, you end up chicken curry"
"No money, no honey"
"3 good things you need to survive on the roads in India, a good horn, good brakes and good luck" (tells you everything you need to know that a God horn comes before good brakes!
"Everything is possible in India" & "why not" (the most common responses to any question or request)
Our last overnight Indian train was due to depart Varanasi at 20:10 and given the traffic conditions our hotel strongly recommended we leave no later than 17:30 to be sure so as they had arranged the driver that's what we did. The driver had little English but did make every effort in fairness to explain that we would go out of town to avoid the worst of the traffic. As we seemed to get further into the sticks one could almost hear banjo's playing in the air and even more stares as we passed groups of seemingly startled locals. We eventually came to a highway although the driver didn't appear to know how to access it we carried on putting the poor car into holes a tractor would be doing well to traverse but thankfully after much wincing (mainly me) and tearing on the underside of the car we were on it. We drove for some time and as if on cue I asked how much further just as the driver indicated to turn off. He explained that this station was in Mughal town (calm down Potter fans, Mughal not Muggle) and they would not see "too many of our kind" and to watch our belongings as thiefs (he even mimicked creeping at this point) would operate here. We arrived and quickly got a sense of his warning. Given that it only took an hour to get there we now had two hours to kill and went to the cafe upstairs deciding that eating there was probably not too clever and with no tea, coffee or milk had our cokes and sat for a while. Getting onto 19:45 I decided to check the platform and was shortly followed by a lone white lady we had seen in the cafe. With no info on the platform and the train having now disappeared from the board I made my way nervously to the enquiry desk. Having been stood on, climbed over and just plain pushed out of the way for 2-3 mins it became apparent brute force was the only way to get to the window! I was then told one hour delay at which point I turned to find the same white lady behind me contemplating the "queuing system" she asked what train and confirmed she was on the same one asking if she could join us. We chatted and learned that Elaina was Swiss and travelling on her own in India for three weeks, brave girl in my opinion! A few games of cards and another coke the advice this time was that it would be two and a half hours late now! Our time in the cafe had thought us that rats are everywhere and not eating here was indeed a clever move. More time had passed and with no further announcements we headed for the platform at 22:15 more trains none of them ours! Having played dodge the rat for about half an hour, back up to the station and the board now showed our train and three and a half hours delay, this information was not received well! We decided the bridge to the platform was probably the least likely place we would pick up any extra passengers in our bags or indeed any bites bigger than the unavoidable insects. Here we picked up another stray, Josh, an American thirty something also travelling alone other than his ukelele visiting schools and orphanages volunteering his time and money where possible. Many hours later and given how long this story is thus far I will cut it considerably shorter and confirm that our train due at 20:10 eventually arrived on the platform at 04:20!! Sleep funnily enough came much easier on this train.
Kolkata (Calcutta)
As we were due to arrive here at 06:50 we were understandably somewhat jaded stepping off the train at 17:20! No transfer to our hotel meant the best option was the pre-paid taxi service as deemed the safest by websites and lonely planet alike. Our driver then had never heard of the address and got lost so when we eventually found the hotel he said as we had given the wrong address we should pay him more money! Rather coolly I pointed him to the sign with the street name on it as we had shown him very politely telling him that I was not going to pay extra for him getting lost, he didn't seem to agree so walking away seemed the best option. We checked in and were too hungry to contemplate a rest or even a shower so ventured out in search of food. We stumbled upon a lovely restaurant although expensive with very nice food and ice cold beer. That was us happy to return to shower and sleep.
We now head towards Mother House, Mother Teresa's home and where she worked from 1953 to 1997 with a small hospital and convent. We walked there about 2.5km along a road where many mechanics carried out all manner of repairs to tuk-tuks, cars and 4x4's with the most basic of tools. It became apparent that as well as repairs many vehicles changed identity here too, number plates, chassis badges, window tints, stickers and hubcaps all changing a vehicle completely in a matter of minutes! Mother House appeared almost invisible on the busy street, painted dark grey with yellow Windows. It was in some ways similar to the Gandhi museum we had visited in Delhi with many photos, stories, speeches and everyday items used by Mother Teresa on display. We also saw her tomb on the ground floor with the words "a clean heart can see god" arranged in orange petals on the white marble tomb. Also the room where she lived and 'went home to god' quite an awe inspiringingly tranquil place in the middle of a busy city.
Kolkata is by far the most westernised city we have been to in India with many designer shops and malls and just seemed in some places at least to be much more affluent than the other cities. There were very few touts or offers of tuk-tuk, autos etc. everybody just getting on with their lives and for a pleasant change not taking so much notice of us as we walked about.
Victoria Memorial in Kolkata was also within walking distance so decided it was worth a look.
It is set in the city opposite a large park with lots of ice cream vendors and budding cricket stars honing their skills. The memorial itself is a very large marble building housing a museum and some 25 different galleries within and is set in beautiful grounds with lakes and perfectly maintained gardens. Looking at it you can see similarities between it, the Taj Mahal and in a strange way Capitol building in Washington. It was built as a memorial to Queen Victoria with construction starting some five years after her death and taking 15 years to complete.
One can't help but notice the difference between this and Mother's House and on reflection begin to understand the way the world did, does and presumably will continue to be somewhat misguided on what really matters in life.
On the way back we passed St. Paul's Cathedral, a very gothic building quite small in stature for a cathedral and very typically English inside with dark timber furniture and crests lining both sides of the church itself.
We returned to our hotel to grab our bags and and an unusually uneventful taxi ride to Kolkata international airport for our flight to Bangkok.
India:
'Incredible India' and it really is in so many ways. Such a massively over populated country means if you want it, you've got to make it or take it! The sights, the sounds, the smells can and will often leave a person utterly speechless, jaw on the floor and not knowing whether to laugh or cry! It is a place that every person should visit at least once in their lives if for no other reason than to put
Some of the "sayings" we've learned here;
"If you hurry hurry, you end up chicken curry"
"No money, no honey"
"3 good things you need to survive on the roads in India, a good horn, good brakes and good luck" (tells you everything you need to know that a God horn comes before good brakes!
"Everything is possible in India" & "why not" (the most common responses to any question or request)
helpful information you have shared..
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